lørdag den 30. maj 2015

MC.INDONESIA / CILACAP / PANGANDARAN / CIPATUJAH JOURNEY 2015 no.2


April 28 / I drive on towards Cilacap located on the coast
Kebumen – Cilacap 120 Km.

The air is wonderfully fresh and the sun warms through here at. 8 in the morning. The sun's rays delete some of the evening's dramatic images from my mind. Now I hope that luck is with me in Cilacap so I find a harmonious place where I can rest my soul.






This early, there is life in the various markets.
On this photograph, I think they show their fighting cocks forward..




The last half of the trip, I choose again to drive along the coastal road, despite the lies 2-3 km. inland and in between there are really bad pavement. I need to relax with some wonderful views instead of having to concentrate on oncoming traffic and overtaking.

After some driving without being able to see and feel the sea energy, I drove down one of the few roads that led out to the sea. Javanese do not grow bathing culture as we do. My body needed to brand sea coolness.

Way out on top of the dunes, fishermen have created large ponds.

The waves are big and they whirled around and pulled downwards by the strong undercurrent as you physically have to fight to go up against. You do not get forward by swimming.- Where is it nice to feel the sea swallow and cooling effect on one's soul.




The beach was empty as far as I could see, except a simple
fishermen with helmets and wear that passed

Now I sit in the shade and writing, in front of a small elderly family Hotel Murni

All the major hotels were fully occupied. I managed to find this older family hotel. The toilets are a bit far from the room, but there are nice clean and very quiet.










I choose to stay an extra night to try to finish the last chapter of my stay as Artist in Residence. Unfortunately, this is no Beach Resort. The large island Kambangan Island which lies just south of the city, has a large military installations and is not a Beach Resort, as I had hoped.
























30 Arpil / Pangandaran 'Beach Resort'
Cilacap – Panandaran  93 km.

My friend Svend Erik, send me an email in which he writes that he many years ago visited Pangandaran and was out with a fishing boat and dive. Great to hear, so I look forward to being able to enjoy the sea a little more intense.










In Pangandaran was the hotels down to the beach shoulders at the shoulders, but it's not hotels that appeals to me, as they do not have proper vision and no terraces with green.

The front of the hotels on the beach, there are the usual small restaurants, with umbrellas, tables and benches. It is outside the tourist season, so it just get moving around, but happiness wheels run anyway.

Using a young local Indonesian I found a great place that lay behind the big hotels. The rooms were divided into small cottages with terraces in a small palm plants. The cabins, however, had seen better days.

It is always a bit special to move around in an environment that is almost deserted, with great restaurants where tables and benches are lined up and crying out to be used. As a theater without publikum.- All waiting for the season to start.

I enjoy three days here in Pangandaran. The water is family friendly as it is located in a bay, so the currents and the waves were not as strong.



I enjoy a mix of something sour sweet bitter strongly he grinds in its
mortar. Another are selling mixes salad on a palm leaf

One of the days I was out sailing and snorkelling. Unfortunately it was a little gray in the weather. The sun's rays would certainly have lighting up the whitish-gray corals and the smaller fish I saw. I had to get used to breathing through the nose into the mask.









 

Friday 1st of May is a day off in Indonesia, but not a political fight day. There was therefore a little more life on the seafront both Friday and Saturday night. A flickering sea of lights of bicycle riding cars for 4-6 people, drove back and forth with some music.



May 3 / Towards Cipatujah a new 'Beach Resort'
Pangandaran –Cipatjah  202 km.

Sunday morning at 7: 00 I had my last swim before I drove to Cipatujah, the beach was filled with local Indonesians. Family beach trip, When I Sunday morning at 7: 00 had to have my last swim before I drove further Cipatujah, the beach was filled with local Indonesians. Very family beach trip, surprisingly early. 



After having driven about 50 km. I came out to the coast road, 
this time irun close to the water. As soon as I got the chance, 
I stopped and took a swim in the open sea water 
and a cup of Kopi (Coffee)

I have come to Cipatujah that I thought would also be a popular beach town, with one big hotel after the other along the coast. Instead, there was some small hotels and Losmen. Cipatujah is quite a small town.

In my search among the small Losmen, I stopped by the owner of 'Losmen Singgahan'. He persuades me to see his little place that consists of only two rooms with views from the terrace into a mid-high wall and behind a tall gray house wall, with some fascinating classic columns. Maybe a little too lonely and sad.

A room cost 150 IDR. However, he was willing to go down to 100 IDR. Here was a little bleak mood, so I would first check if there was something that fell better in my taste. The other Losmen seemed a bit too small and oppressive for A Lonely Cowboy.

I returned to the individual futility. The owner was happy because it was a long time ago that he had guests and had the opportunity to practice his English. There were so few foreign tourists.





100 IDR match ($ 8). I decided to stay there for a few days and would pay him the 150 IDR for each night. Fair trade.  

I have been told that a normal months. salary here in Indonesia will be on 1.500.000 IDR and a low salary of 500.000 IDR. Living costs approximately 40 IDR per. day so the majority of the Indonesians survive at a minimum.

Before he drove home to his family, he would like to have payment for one night, he needed money for cigarettes. In the evenings he would come and take me to  his brother's restaurant. He also own a restaurant, but currently it is closed because they have  the smallest child to be looked after.

No tourists but big waves








Tourists are not many and it seems as if the place had its heyday. The economic crash of 2008 did that the construction of the hotel, the gray with the classical columns behind his Losmen, had to stop.

Singgahang hope that there again will come more tourists, he would love to expand his Losmen with a few extra rooms. A real positive trigger.

Again it rains. It has done that every night since I took on this MC.journey. So I've been lucky not to drive in rain. -  Dusk and rain, the classic gray dream that may never be realized and the blank wall. Maturity atmosphere fascinates me. It reminds me of the Fassbinder's play 'The city, waste and Death' which I made decorations for to the 'House Theater'.

The slightly wide cornice above the window to my room has been 
turned, down of the major heavy rain drops that fell last night

Singgahang has again opened his restaurant an offers me a French Toast

7:00 am. he comes on his scooter and tells me that now he had open his restaurant again so I can come and get French Toast for breakfast. I shake a little deprecating head, for I have some fruit, I will eat this morning.

I also think it's too much if he thinks he can totally count on me. At lunchtime I take, however, up to the main road to see his restaurant. It seems that he work together with his brother's restaurant, where the wife makes the food. He had nothingt for a vegetarian. He could offer me a French Toast. But I was not much for eggs again when I the last few days had omelet with vegetables for breakfast.


Singgahang in front of his restaurant

I should also say hello to his family

The town is not very big and I found no place I'd want to eat. So I turned back and said yes to a French Toast. I had then to buy the sandwich bread in the expensive supermarkets Indo Maret, they have snacks in a thousand different European variations and white bread.

He would come down with the toast to my room. After 45 minutes. I called him, where was my toast of. He apologized a thousand times and immediately came driving with a toaster and a coffee powder letter, he also would make coffee for me in my thermos.

He placed the toaster on my floor. He warmed the water for the coffee  and a little girl next door with the omelet, which I could then place between my roasted pieces of white bread. It tasted very good. We agreed that I could get a toast in the morning, so he would save the bread.

I was a little surprised by this way of runing a restaurant. I was out for a similar situation in India, in the town of Bundi on my motorbike. Journey 2011. A Guest House advertised that they had a Park Restaurant in the garden. While I stand and looked around for the restaurant. Then comes suddenly 'out of nowhere' a smiling, beautiful young woman in red sari to meet me. In fluent English, she tells me proudly that they have a restaurant. She points to some closed wooden doors as she goes and unlocks. I look into a room filled with piles of plastic furniture and a sort of kitchen. The man showed up and took over the dialogue. I repeated again what I had said to her that I would like yogurt with fruit, honey and ginger tea. To which he said yes.

After placing me on a chair with a plastictable, he gave me a menu, with so many different dishes. It was quite clear that he had to buy the new raw material he needed every time a new customer ordering a meal.

I will be in Cipatujah three days



I enjoy the peace and solitude, although it can be a little
  depressing to see beach stalls filled with
various products and very few people.



The last day of Cipatjujah I drove with Singgahang out to a Hot Spring. I assumed that I could bathe in it. In the photo, I try with my feet to go a little deeper. My facial expression clearly shows that the water below the surface is insanely hot, so I look like too insane when I send out a primal scream. Other places like Bali, they make a kind of pool where the water from The Hot Spring is mixed with cold water.

I have decided not to run more to the west on Java, but driving directly north, towards the artist colony located in Jatiwangi that I have from the start planned to visit.

Since I am not interested in too long exhausting driving days, I made a stop in Tasikmalaya.











Love from

Bjarne v.H.H.Solberg

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