It's great to see the sea again and feel the fresh sea breeze
despite the sun's enormous energy
16. Feb. Thrissur - Ponnani 88 km.
From the beginning of this MC.journey I had hoped that I would reach down to India's southernmost point and feel the sand between my toes and its heat spread to my whole body. There are some strong symbolic power in the extremities.
But from the beginning of my trip, I could see that it was an unrealistic goal. The route I let slowly crystallize along the way. Thrissur was the most south I got this time.
Now I'm heading out to the coast, to follow the coastline all the way back to Goa. I chose the small town of Ponnani, who was one of the closest towns on the coast, hoping to find a great hotel overlooking the Indian Ocean.
I am very excited about what the shoreline, can give me new experiences.
But from the beginning of my trip, I could see that it was an unrealistic goal. The route I let slowly crystallize along the way. Thrissur was the most south I got this time.
Now I'm heading out to the coast, to follow the coastline all the way back to Goa. I chose the small town of Ponnani, who was one of the closest towns on the coast, hoping to find a great hotel overlooking the Indian Ocean.
I am very excited about what the shoreline, can give me new experiences.
I drove all the way out to the sea, to see if I could find a beach hotel. But it was the poor who lived all the way to the beach. There was all the way along the coast established a kind of storm dyke to withstand a minor storm surge along most of the coastline.
I had taken swim pants on in the morning, so when I found a beach piece and not just a stone dyke, I disappeared into the fresh salty Indian Ocean, away from the 20 young boys who curiously, had followed my undressing from reinforced armor to my mini swim pants while constantly asking 'whats your name' 'where do you come from' etc. Ponnani is not a tourist town. However, I got a little insight into how the poor live here along the coast. Very vulnerable to the forces of the sea.
I had taken swim pants on in the morning, so when I found a beach piece and not just a stone dyke, I disappeared into the fresh salty Indian Ocean, away from the 20 young boys who curiously, had followed my undressing from reinforced armor to my mini swim pants while constantly asking 'whats your name' 'where do you come from' etc. Ponnani is not a tourist town. However, I got a little insight into how the poor live here along the coast. Very vulnerable to the forces of the sea.
On my way towards Mahe I run through a few cities where I meet the same
vision of waste and burnt out cars along their main road. It seems
it is the way Kerala handle there big trash.
vision of waste and burnt out cars along their main road. It seems
it is the way Kerala handle there big trash.
The clammy sweat kept me awake
I find a hotel but is unlucky to get a room where the wind fan just thump away, so I felt that I was about to take off. Fine in the daytime, but not when you go to sleep. But I could not bear to move space here 11 pm. so it will probably be a hot night with stagnant hot air.
I also had lots of small mosquitoes in the room because my windows were open. So I was curious as to what the night would bring. I tried to give most of the small creatures a proper smack .
I was forced to close the windows because now there were too many mosquitoes around my bare feet and my head. The time is 11:30 pm. and the TV just outside the room, at the front desk had been running at full blast all night. I had asked them to turn it down and it got a tiny notch down. But now they had to stop the noise. I told him that now I would have peace and quiet to sleep. I think I'm the only guest in this worn-out hotel .
The noise level is extremely high here in India, so they have learned to accept each other's noise, but forgot that it can have a negative effect on others .
Well I have to continue tomorrow.
It was impossible for me to fall asleep without a little wind from a rotating fan in the ceiling and then with closed windows. The clammy sweat kept me awake. At 1 am. I decided that I would have to get another room where the wind fan worked. But the receptionist was now gone to bed and the gate to the hotel was closed with a padlock. I could see that there was a wind blowing at the reception desk . Should I just take it or should I wake receptionist who probably slept in the room near the front desk where the door stood ajar.
I decided to go behind the counter and pull the plug out of the wall and abduct the wind blower. I was not entirely comfortable to take the situation into my own hands. With the wind fan on low and the windows open I went to sleep after that had smacked myself many times to counteract the small moskitoers attack.
I woke up already at. 5 am. and decided to hand the wind fan back. The receptionist was already up and stood shirtless and looked a little scowling at me when I delivered wind blower back and tried to tell him that the wind fan in my room had rotated as a helkopter.
17 Feb. Ponnani – Mahe 132 km.
Alternative route
I must have built up some energy on this trip, although the night was tough to get through. I try to make a little detour into the country, perhaps I would run into an exciting overgrown temple area. But no exciting enclave of small houses I encountered. All the houses were normal family houses with their own plot of land. The village settlements I have met in North India, has more stood shoulder to shoulder in order to survive .
This alternative route, extended the trip with 70 km. This alternative route was long since I drove around in a river area with few bridges.
Before, the city Vadakara where I had decided to spend the night, I again drove along the beach to find a hotel.
Here in South India, they call it no more Hotel or Guest house but Lodge. They call the restaurant for 'Hotel'. Again it was the poor who lived right on the waterfront. When I got to the local small clean beach piece, I used again the opportunity to swim in the waves. Again with a group of young boys around me, which fortunately was not so overbearing.
This time , I hoped to find a hotel that was better and where I could enjoy beating me down some days. I figured out that 4-5 driving days was enough to reach back to Goa. In fact , I had 16 days left on my motorbike. journey
This alternative route, extended the trip with 70 km. This alternative route was long since I drove around in a river area with few bridges.
Before, the city Vadakara where I had decided to spend the night, I again drove along the beach to find a hotel.
Here in South India, they call it no more Hotel or Guest house but Lodge. They call the restaurant for 'Hotel'. Again it was the poor who lived right on the waterfront. When I got to the local small clean beach piece, I used again the opportunity to swim in the waves. Again with a group of young boys around me, which fortunately was not so overbearing.
This time , I hoped to find a hotel that was better and where I could enjoy beating me down some days. I figured out that 4-5 driving days was enough to reach back to Goa. In fact , I had 16 days left on my motorbike. journey
Find the dream hotel 'French Avenue' in town Mahe
All Lodge in Vadakara was in the middle of the city and none of them looked nice, so I chose to drive on to find 'Room With a Veiw'. When I after 20 km. drive through the small town of Mahe, I saw a beautiful white large Catholic church near the main road and there was a little more style than the shops than I had seen so far, so instinctively I stopped and asked for directions to a Lodge.
I was referred to a government guest house, which unfortunately is not rented out to private. They referred to another Lodge, they had only a room for one night. So they referred me on to this dream Hotel 'French Avenue' which is located on one of the side of a large sports area where young people play different ball game. Some schools located in the area, using it as a schoolyard.
I was referred to a government guest house, which unfortunately is not rented out to private. They referred to another Lodge, they had only a room for one night. So they referred me on to this dream Hotel 'French Avenue' which is located on one of the side of a large sports area where young people play different ball game. Some schools located in the area, using it as a schoolyard.
In front of the hotel I was greeted by a crowd of screaming young school girls 10-12 years of age who play in the shadow of ' French Avenue'. They would, of course, practice their English with the same question ' whats your name '. I took some pictures of the girls who wanted me to take photo, every time I came back to the hotel. I got an email address for one of the teachers, so I can send them some photos.
The hotel seemed fully enclosed with lattice door locked. The young pupils showed me how I opened to get into the hotel. It lived fully up to its individual but refined look from outside. It is simply furnished with modern style. The room is simple but top aesthetic, the bed is soft like a dream, the room lighting is simple and fine. It is not simply a neon tube in the ceiling and wind fan moves like swan wings. After last night's sweat on a hard madras, with a wind fan that did not work and so the constant noise, this is a dream .
The room has views to the west, so I have afternoon sun's rays into the room and can through a group of coconut palms leaves, due to how the sun slowly sets. The price of the room is more than I usually give. However, I got a good reduction because I would not use air conditioning .
Several times I have caught a cold, from the cool features air conditioning, so I avoid it. The room is nice cool day and night, since the hotel is high and only 100 m from the ocean's cool breeze. Here I can hear the different birds calling. The only big noise in the daytime when children's positive cries and screams seems optimistic to me.
A road from the hotel lead directly down to the sea, to a small palm grove that ends a very elegant promenade of the French Riviera style. I actually think that this night was the inauguration of the palm grove with some historical bronze reliefs.
The hotel seemed fully enclosed with lattice door locked. The young pupils showed me how I opened to get into the hotel. It lived fully up to its individual but refined look from outside. It is simply furnished with modern style. The room is simple but top aesthetic, the bed is soft like a dream, the room lighting is simple and fine. It is not simply a neon tube in the ceiling and wind fan moves like swan wings. After last night's sweat on a hard madras, with a wind fan that did not work and so the constant noise, this is a dream .
The room has views to the west, so I have afternoon sun's rays into the room and can through a group of coconut palms leaves, due to how the sun slowly sets. The price of the room is more than I usually give. However, I got a good reduction because I would not use air conditioning .
Several times I have caught a cold, from the cool features air conditioning, so I avoid it. The room is nice cool day and night, since the hotel is high and only 100 m from the ocean's cool breeze. Here I can hear the different birds calling. The only big noise in the daytime when children's positive cries and screams seems optimistic to me.
A road from the hotel lead directly down to the sea, to a small palm grove that ends a very elegant promenade of the French Riviera style. I actually think that this night was the inauguration of the palm grove with some historical bronze reliefs.
The downside of traveling alone is that you sometimes encounter a local trying to latch onto you. Either of corporate debt or to try out their English. This time the person stuck out too long on me. Finally I managed to go free from him, I thought. Suddenly he stood 10 cm. behind me, breathing down my neck as he looked on my camera screen. I got a bit of a shock and in frustration I pushed him physically away. Now, words are not enough. I took some photos of the sunset, but did not enjoyed the experience when he took all attention.
The beautiful Indian culture which shines through decay aesthetics
I enjoy this French modern simple style, this. It fits perfectly fine for my inner aesthetic luxury animals. Now I have suffered for too long, I had to suppress my aesthetic needs that are constantly being affected by this unaesthetic visual chaos, I like the Indians, of course, are influenced by that.
As an artist, I find that these points of light that occurs when the historical cultural worked through objects shine through time decay. This due aesthetics I love how the story goes in dialogue with the present and thereby creates this great tension relationship between past, present and future.
With my camera I choose - and highlights these exciting, historic, unusual or human beautiful details. I focus on some detail in this great overall chaotic visual image of aesthetic decay.
As an artist, I find that these points of light that occurs when the historical cultural worked through objects shine through time decay. This due aesthetics I love how the story goes in dialogue with the present and thereby creates this great tension relationship between past, present and future.
With my camera I choose - and highlights these exciting, historic, unusual or human beautiful details. I focus on some detail in this great overall chaotic visual image of aesthetic decay.
I drove along the coast of Mahe to find a piece of the beach, without having to step through a pile of garbage. Finally, I found a piece of beach with less garbage that did not give me this lump in my throat so I could not enter. Again, I was out there and enjoy the ocean greatness.
Mahe has until the liberation in 1954, been a French colony
Mahe was from 1724 the main hub of France's activities in Kerala and preserved this city as a colony until India's liberation in 1954. Therefore, the city is a bit special because of its French cultural roots. Today, the population of 41,000. A size that correspond to the nation of Liechtenstein.
Mahe is now mostly known for selling liquor at a very low price because of very low tax. They have their own laws and do not follow the rest of Kerala's laws. Therefore, there are these completely open liquor stores throughout the small town. On the main street there were about. 50-60 Liquor stores. Not all equally elegant as these.
St. Teresa’s Church 1736
Room With a View
When I previously talked about that I was looking for 'Room With a View', - I meant it literally. On this journey, I can see that it was an impossible requirement to expect. I am looking for a room in the height with large windows. Daylight gives a sense of freedom when I spend many hours in the room to fix photos and write blog. There are very few hotels here in India that do not have bars on their windows. It is depressing to a room only with a single bed and a small cell window bars with a view of a concrete wall 1 m away, no daylight but a neon light in the ceiling, so it is impossible to read. This is actually what you are offered too often. Very little spatial aesthetics.
’French Avenue’
Besides me, there were no other guests at the 'French Avenue' in the 4 days I stayed there. The 4 of 8 hotel rooms were rented out to medical students who currently had free. The restaurant on the ground floor was out of service and the top was a large conference room. Receptionists were nice to make a cup of coffee for me in the morning.
So I enjoyed this my home in complete tranquility and peace. I try to put the plans fixed for the last 2 weeks. Fortunately, I have discovered that on my way along the coast, there are two Hindu Pilgrim Centre Temple Cities Sringeri and Kollurup in the mountains, but close to the coast. Then I can along the coast visit a third Hindu Pilgrims Center temple town Gokaran.
Fortunately, my fears to follow the coastline now to a voltage to visit the temple towns. But before Sringeri, I'm going to make a stop in the seaside town of Bekal.
So I enjoyed this my home in complete tranquility and peace. I try to put the plans fixed for the last 2 weeks. Fortunately, I have discovered that on my way along the coast, there are two Hindu Pilgrim Centre Temple Cities Sringeri and Kollurup in the mountains, but close to the coast. Then I can along the coast visit a third Hindu Pilgrims Center temple town Gokaran.
Fortunately, my fears to follow the coastline now to a voltage to visit the temple towns. But before Sringeri, I'm going to make a stop in the seaside town of Bekal.
Right foot raised on luck and accident
When I went for a walk in Mahe area, I was a bit unlucky to lose control of my little camera that fell to the ground. However, I was fast enough to cushion its fall against the pavement with my bare wrist in sandals. It made damned hurt when the corner hit my bare wrist. The camera then did a little further bump down on the asphalt, so I mitigated the accident. The camera was rescued. That evening, I was unlucky to hit a large rock sticking out of the sand, with great force. My two middle toes swollen to double. Fortunately, it is not the right foot I switch foot gear, but left. Good that I will be here a few days, because shoe hurts to wear.
21. Feb. Mahe – Bekal 171 km.
How lucky can you be in a day
Getting away from Mahe, the road along the coast was perfectly fine with no holes and not as much traffic as feared. Since I have been running around. 40 km. I stop in a small town of wanting to make sure that I had chosen the right path and therefore I will check with my Iphone, as I fish out of my right jacket pocket. I'm trying to find my glasses, which normally will be resolved in my left jacket pocket. There are no glasses, they must have fallen out. It's my second pair of glasses I've lost out of my left jacket pocket. I have chosen to havethe glasses loose in my pocket, so I easily can get them. In the pocket, I also have a handkerchief which I sometimes are forced to use .
Maybe I have not put them in my pocket, they are perhaps still in my small backpack that I always have on my back, to protect my computer and my big camera against the harsh bumps, you constantly come out on a MC. Offensive will be mitigated through my body. In my backpack I have also my passport, driving license, wallet, visa card. The backpack I always walk around with. I try to take the backpack off to look for my glasses. But where is the backpack, I have it not on my back .
During the long runs, I always have my back protective shield that is strapped like a backpack. That's why I keep feeling that I have a backpack on.
Panic spreads in my mind and disaster scenarios fall into more than one sekund. Did I forget it in Mahe. I look behind me and saw my backpack with computer and camera be resolved in the corner of the right part of the luggage rack. In the left part, I had strapped a bag.
It is extremely fortunate that it has not fallen off while driving. This is obviously because I 've drive without the big swing, and have not driven on roads full of potholes and bumps .
Maybe I have not put them in my pocket, they are perhaps still in my small backpack that I always have on my back, to protect my computer and my big camera against the harsh bumps, you constantly come out on a MC. Offensive will be mitigated through my body. In my backpack I have also my passport, driving license, wallet, visa card. The backpack I always walk around with. I try to take the backpack off to look for my glasses. But where is the backpack, I have it not on my back .
During the long runs, I always have my back protective shield that is strapped like a backpack. That's why I keep feeling that I have a backpack on.
Panic spreads in my mind and disaster scenarios fall into more than one sekund. Did I forget it in Mahe. I look behind me and saw my backpack with computer and camera be resolved in the corner of the right part of the luggage rack. In the left part, I had strapped a bag.
It is extremely fortunate that it has not fallen off while driving. This is obviously because I 've drive without the big swing, and have not driven on roads full of potholes and bumps .
The power of the MC. th battery has disappeared
When I reached Bekal I stopped on the main street, at an ATM to withdraw cash. When I came out I couldn't get the MC. to start. I tried many times but it would not start. I tried the light and could see that there was a lack of power.- I should then be able to kick start it. I try but I could feel that I was out of shape with it. I do not want to have to kick start every time I had to run. I asked if there was a workshop nearby. There was a MC.workshop 20 m away. How lucky can you be.
THe battery electric wires were not properly assembled, so it didn't get maximum power . The day before I got anothrt workshop to stopped a hole in the battery because it was leaking fluid. The battery was not collected properly again. It's not the first time I'm on my trips to the various MC . workshops is out that they are not fully aware of what they do.
Fortunately, this MC. mechanics corrected the other's fault .
I also found an eyeglass store and bought two pairs of reading glasses, even though it was n't the right strength. Without glasses it will be difficult for me to read and write. I had otherwise acquired all 3 pairs of glasses for safety's sake , because I know that I can easily lose them. The third pair I lost at the beginning of the trip.
In this city I didn't managed to find a hotel with a view.
THe battery electric wires were not properly assembled, so it didn't get maximum power . The day before I got anothrt workshop to stopped a hole in the battery because it was leaking fluid. The battery was not collected properly again. It's not the first time I'm on my trips to the various MC . workshops is out that they are not fully aware of what they do.
Fortunately, this MC. mechanics corrected the other's fault .
I also found an eyeglass store and bought two pairs of reading glasses, even though it was n't the right strength. Without glasses it will be difficult for me to read and write. I had otherwise acquired all 3 pairs of glasses for safety's sake , because I know that I can easily lose them. The third pair I lost at the beginning of the trip.
In this city I didn't managed to find a hotel with a view.
AUM
Bjarne v.H.H.Solberg
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