fredag den 29. april 2016

MC.VIETNAM / DO SON / HA LONG BAY / HANOI JOURNEY 2016 no.8

This morning 9 am. I sit out on the balcony, which goes all the way around my hotel room. - I pulled a small table out on the balcony to my computer, to complete a new report. 


March 27 / Buddhist temple center like a spiritual Walt Disney land
Diem Dien – Do Son Beach 60 km.

After photographed immediate environment, I make ready to run on.

Almost every time I leave a hotel, follow the staff in my departure process to tighten my luggage on the motorbike. They help me if necessary with a push, so I get the cold engine started .

Until now, the push of the start button worked, except in the morning. But once the MC is running hot, it could well turn on a tap. But yesterday I had again to use the kick starter. When it does not succeed, I must have a push. This is called 'jump start' in English.

I have now found out that I can run it alone with my legs on each side sitting on motorbike , I can actually come up in a pretty good speed, giving force and momentum enough to put MC engine running when I switch to 1 gear. It looks a bit comical when I do it, but it works.

 














A spiritual Walt Disney Land. After driving a few kilometers out of town, I saw this construction of two gigantic dragons, there must be a portal to a Buddhist center. I run up to the center. It is reminiscent of a Buddhist amusement center for the whole family, where they have visualized many religious myths and stories.



These plain houses with all their whimsy, is visually inspired by Buddhist temples and their husaltre
  



Grayscale on most of my photos. I have had an incredible number disset, foggy and cloudy gray days of my trip, so everything was gray. One photo it is the light that creates contrast and colors, it provides the most direct sensory experiences. Gray day requires more introspection and empathy of the viewer to distinguish detail, from the gray whole. All gray reflect no light and energy back, like a good game of ping pong. But it can be magical and dramatic. In my art, I have worked with jet black color powder where one's gaze, energy and subconscious got soak into the dark nothing.


Stopped in a speed control

From the town of Do Son I drove on a very broad boulevard facing the beach resort area. There was less and less traffic nearer I got the recreation area. After a few turns around some hills, I and a car got stopped by some police officers, it is a speed control action. I have otherwise not seen much police besides some police cars on my journey.

A civil officer who can speak a little English tells me that I have run 62 km. per hour and that I only can drive 50 Km. I had not seen any speed sign. Throughout my trip, I have only seen a few speed signs and it was on a highway.

The officer looked at my international and my Danish driving license. I could see that he did not really understand my papers. Over his walkie talkie he gave my license plate number.

I was curious how much I would get in fine. But they let me pass.


I am offered a prostitute

When I had come almost to the tip of the headland. There were some hotels who turned back out to sea. A very dramatic views. I could see that there were some hotels who had a kind of balcony on the sea side. I know from experience that it is difficult to find a Hotel With a View in the first row at the beach as restaurant booths will simply destroy one's view.

At this time of year, there were not many tourists. But still there was in front of these small hotels many young locals who hang out. I went into one of the small hotels that I thought had a balcony With a View.

The staff misunderstood me completely. I just wanted to see if they had a room with a balcony. A little angry man asked me to wait a bit. He did not understand English. Then appeared a little frightened young girl up. The man pushed the girl a little aggressively up the steep stairs and I was asked to follow right after. Her skintight jeans featured her adorable little butt right out of my head,

Along with the slightly frightened young girl, I was shown into a dark room with no windows. First now it dawned on me that they thought I would have a room and a young prostitute. The man realized that he had made a mistake, for two other men waited. They had probably ordered the young girl. I was shown the room facing the sea. It had no balcony but a grid for the window. - This guesthouse was not for me. I tried not to ask about the room in some of the other neighboring hotels, it seemed more like a light living place, with all the young men who hang out outside of the small hotels, restaurants and shops.

I am still the romantic type who believes in true love.

Find the right Hotel With a View

I drive on up to the top of the hill drawn where the road and spit ends. Here is Vietnam's first casino and hotel, which can only be used by foreigners. There are guards at the two entrances to the Casino.

On the way down from the casino, I see a large hotel and then another slightly smaller, as I drive up at a  side road to check the price and views.



The hotel is built in a simple functionalist style. It seems very empty and deserted. But the door is open to the foyer. When I enter comes a young small and slight very adorable girl from a room where I can see that she has been under some blankets and watched television.

I ask if they have a room and whats the price. She does not understand English. She seems very shy and tongue-tied. She finds, however, some keys up to a room and give me the keys. I ask her with gesture to follow, as receptionists usually do.

I do not know what she was thinking when I with my gesture and with the keys in hand asking her to come with me. After some try, I understand that she will not follow me. What it is because I can only guess.

She thought perhaps that I wanted her to enter the room to make something more intimate. These thoughts swirled in my head - probably stimulated by the situation I had just experienced, with the prostitutes at the other hotel. Or maybe it was some sexual desire suppressed thoughts that popped up.

I am the only one outside the summer season, have found this beautiful hotel. The interior is decorated in a more classic French / Vietnamese style, with French shutters on the windows, dark wood laminate flooring, tongue copy furniture with cuts like life-giving vein gives the room soul and warmth along with paintings in heavy carved frames. In its classic simplicity, design and gravity radiates warmth and historical fullness. Terms of craftsmanship, it is only just OK.


It is twice as big as the last hotel prison cell in Diem Dien. This room is also three times as expensive.

My claim to luxury, are very modest and this hotel is not a exclusive luxury hotel. It has a sense of simple classic quality, aesthetics and is beautifully isolated with a prospect. It's luxury for a yogi ascetic and minimalist like me who love the modern, but at the same time have my feet firmly planted in classical culture. It is the contrast in the time and space that gives tension and drama. 

I decided to stay 3 nights so I get some time to write down some thoughts.

Vegetarian dinner

In the evening I find a restaurant that will make something vegetarian for me. Again, cabbage and an omelette rolls which I received  and the soup water.

The husband there is a little drunk try to get me to drink with him, but I'm not interested. He tells something about Vietnam's No.1 and arms visualize that he shoot with a gun. I can not understand what he says. He's probably around 60 years, so he could have been involved in the Vietnam War as a young man, the chattering bicycle mechanic I met in Hue also talked about Vietnam. I did not understand what he said. So there are some Vietnamese, who speaks openly about this traumatic war.

The man demanded that the wife get 80,000 dong for my meal. I had every time otherwise only paid between 30 to 40,000 Dong. The wife think it was too much. When I gave her two 50,000 dong notes, she hastened to give me one 50,000 Dong note back. He had during my entire eating seance commanded her to do one thing and the other for me. Although he did nothing without drinking. She did the cooking and now she did accounting. Perhaps he got angry at me because I would not accept his drinks.


This morning 9 am. I sit out on the balcony, which goes all the way around my hotel room. - I pulled a small table out on the balcony to my computer, to complete a new report. I'm sitting with leather jacket and big scarf, as only 18 c. I enjoy the fresh air and the view over the sea through the trees, which here on the west side of the town of Do Son extreme isthmus are fishing boats anchored out in the ocean. - There are almost completely silent, except delectable birds twitter.

I love this painting with the fruits that rolls out of the bowl on the chair. It hangs at the entrance to my Vip Room 201. It is certainly inspired by Vincent Van Gogh's yellow painting 'chair'. 

Quiet days in Do Son

It was some quiet days when I most kept me indoors and wrote on my blog. The mother was away during the day so the young girl and I were the only ones in the entire complex. She made sure that I got boiling water so I could make some tea or coffee.

We communicated a little through my iPhone google translate. I asked her about her name and why she was not in school. She wrote back that she no longer went to school. I asked how old she was. She was 19 years. I thought she was 16 years. What she had thought up training. She would like to be hairdresser.




Do Son Beach has lots of great hotel complexes that will surely be filled when it is peak season, as Do Son Beach is just 25 km away from Hai Phong, which is the third largest city in Vietnam and close to Hanoi.


Do Son Beach beach is not much bigger than Bellevue Beach outside Copenhagen. But the promenade is more than 4 km. long.

30 March / It has become more cool
Do Song – Ha Long Bay  90 km.

On this journey I've been a bit unlucky with the weather. It is again today gray, but dry. The sun may think that through the years I've had enough sun. - In my young hippie years I thought at some point that I was a little too serious and thoughtful. Therefore I started to use the name Bjarne sunshine instead of Bjarne Solberg.- When I saw it in writing, I smiled. And that was the purpose, to think a little positive on life.

I've had a few quiet days here in Do Son Beach, but now I look forward to experience Ha Long Bay with the small mountain tops sticking out of the sea on the horizon. I tell the hotel owner and her daughter via my iPhone translation that I have been very pleased with the positive energy from them and the place.

The traffic is dense, from I drive from the town of Do Son against the city of Hai Phong and on to Ha Long. First when I turn away from the major highway I get rid of the heavy traffic. I have chosen to run the more direct route that requires that I had to take a boat to cross a river estuary.



By ferry I get stopped by a young guy who asks me to follow him down to a smaller boat. There is a slightly larger boat that is being emptied for passengers. I try to get answers why I have to sail alone with his boat and not with the other major båd.- But how much should he have for the crossing - 400,000 dong. I am well aware that it is a violent overpriced. I resign rather than negotiate the price down.

This boat sails five times as fast as the little tug that slowly pushed the big barge filled with cars and motorbike. forward. They look at me when I pass them at great speed. I've probably paid more than 10 times as much, for this luxury crossing.

 

When I arrive at Ha Long I have a hard time finding down to Ha Long's waterfront. I run back and forth a few times at the 3 km. long waterfront to find a hotel I like, With A View. I am lucky on the waterfront is a hotel that has windows facing the sea. The window has bars, but I can still enjoy the view, and through the mist see rocky islands on the horizon.



View from my hotel window in Ha Long

I find an MC. workshop as it is now again not just start button but also all the light on MC. does not work. I will make sure that no problems arise in the morning when I have to run the last stretch to my starting point Hanoi, on this MC. Vietnam Journey. The mechanic tells me that the battery I bought 4 weeks ago, is not the right battery for a Honda 125 cc and it is therefore MC again drain. It is a new variation - why my MC drain. He believes, therefore, that it is not enough just to recharge my battery. This process will take 5 hours and the time is now 19:00. The workshop is located far away from my hotel. A new battery costs 160 kr. So I decide to buy a new batteri.- Again, I have lights and can start turning work.






 



I rent a small motor boat for an hour I sailed around between the small rocky islands



















1 April / When I drive fast the fog become raindrops
Ha Long – Hanoi 170 km.

Today I skip, doing my daily hatha yoga. It is the only morning I do not have resolved my physical and mental ritual on this trip.

There's a lot of moisture in the air this morning. First when I drove, I found out that fog mist turns into rain drops. I stop and take all my rain gear on.

I cross fingers that it does not turn into heavy rain. As the drizzle came to, I stopped and pulled a few plastic bags out of my boots.











I stopped when I saw this array of decorative vases



I am not aware about these two buildings are conceived as Catholic churches or modern hotels, inspired by the French style

It was hard in the misty and hazy weather, to look through the helmet's visor. it did not help that some trucks sent splashes of mud from the road up on my visor. So I had to use the fingers as a wiper to look through the brownish drizzle. I'm glad that the bags on the feet takes against the worst mud.

All major highways, have each side of the roadway a white line, as the cars must stay outside. It is designed for pedestrians, cyclists and motorbike.

This means that the MC. drivers like me do not have to overtake the trucks around, but can do the inside, making it less dangerous and exhausting. For there are many trucks there are noisy and only drive 40-50 km. that you want to pass.




The truck has certainly tried to overtake another truck and then hit the bus at the side. It is the only accident I've seen on my journey.

Traffic was close most of the way. The drizzle stopped only when I reached Hanoi.

When I reach Hanoi and stop to brief me on the map, the start button again didn't work.
-  Symbolically for this MC.Vietnam Journey -


Temple of Literature was built in 1070. It is Vietnam's first national university that is dedicated to Confucius, sages and scholars.





 

 



 

Temple of Litterature 

Water Puppet Theatre  in Hanoi



I gave Water Puppet Theatre a second chance and saw it in the middle of Hanoi. They played indoors in a pool filled with water. They were 10 puppet lead and 7 musicians who played classical Vietnamese music. In Hue the stage was twice as large, but they had only 3 puppet lead. Here, in Hanoi, there could be three times number of pops in action at the same time. It was basically the same 12 small simple stories they showed. The auditorium was sold out and they played many times a day. It was a slightly different experience, perhaps a little more authentic I had in Hue, where it took place on the edge of lagoon.- Water Puppet Theatre is an old puppet theater tradition that started already in the 11th century. How they behaved puppet in the rice fields.

In Hue the Water Puppet Theatre was performed at the edge of a lagoon. It was not a great experience. The water scene was pretty big and the show a little too far away. There were only 3 puppet lead, therefore, the activity of the small dolls was limited. It was difficult to fill the stage space up. But it was a bit exciting to sit outdoors with the city life. There were very few spectator



Water Puppet Theatre  i Hue

Honda needed to be washed after running more than 3,000 kilometers. I wanted also the MC. dealer to buy it back. I bought it for $ 400.  He promised to buy it back, for about $ 250 if there had been no damage to the MC. The dealer was not much to buy it back, as he currently had too many MC. He wanted me to sell it to one of the young backpackers and I would easily be able to get more for it. I was not interested in selling this MC on, as there was a lot of initial problems that no one had solve. This problem, I kept to myself, I wanted the dealer bought it back. I told him he promised that he would buy it back. I showed him the photo on my computer which errors MC. had and all the improvements. He agreed to $ 240.- When he had to drive it in place, he could of course not start with start button, but had to kick-start it. When he managed to start it, he said to me, it's no problem we can fix everything. It has been a cheap but not unproblematic transport. It has cost me about $10 per. day / half for repairs and spare parts, the other half by the loss purchase / sale of MC.- Next time it might be a bigger and almost new model I will rent. 

 

MC. Vietnam Journey 2016 / Hanoi/ Phu Yen/ Mai Chau/ Cam Thuy/ Yen Cat/ Huong Khe/ Son Trach/ Tang Ky/ Hue/ Da Nang/ Hue Beach/ Phu Viet/ Thien Cam/ Xuan An/ Diem Dien/ Do Son/ Ha Long/ Hanoi/  -  42 days / 3.110 km. / 18 driving days = 173 km. per. day.

This 6-week MC.Vietnam Journey has cost $3.300 / Fly / Insurance / Visa / Vacination / Food / MC. Buy and Sell / Gasoline / Repairs / Museums / Hotel average per. night $18






'Tea' delicatessen shop

Vietnamese street musicians play in front of a temple


It requires some physical strength to sit to long on a motorbike

Since I this time have drive on a small motorbike and with the Vietnamese speed limits, I have been running very quiet and it has clearly been less stressful.

The roads here in Vietnam have been perfect for the most part. But I have also used the major roads for the most part. There have on this trip not been so many less clay and gravel road I have to drive on.

Traffic has been minimal and I have not at all been in gridlock when I have passed through some mill. cities. While in Hanoi, where you constantly have to be aware that many attempts at alternative ways of getting in and take chances that at times can seem extremely dangerous.

I had this time decided not to use too much effort to find the right hotel With A Veiw. But still I managed quickly and easily, after many years of training, to identify OK hotels.

It is demanding to change the hotel often as you constantly have to adapt to new surroundings. Unpack and pack away, adjust to the room, the mattress hardness, pillow texture, ventilation, lighting and all the new foreign sounds.

I read an article about sleep, where it is said that our left brain is on duty the first night in unfamiliar surroundings, such as in a hotel. We feel less rested when we were disturbed by strange new sounds.

I'm used to use earplugs which is a big help. I had the great pleasure of my thin air base at 2 cm height, since almost all hotels have hard mattresses my hip bone do not like. My air pillow I only need a couple of times. On average, I sleep 1-2 hours less than usual on these journey. It helps to slowly drained my energy.

It is demanding on one's body to sit in such a fixed position, as you do on a motorbike perhaps for 8-9 hours if you drive 300 km. And then continue driving the next day because of uninteresting city and bad hotel.

Here 3 weeks after my return, I still have some knee, which still needs rest and slow rehabilitation.

Every morning I made Hatha -Yoga about 40 min. to strengthen and smoothen the body and stimulate the circulation and all the internal organs. It has clearly discouraged too many tensions.

Every time I came home from one of my long MC. traveling has my body reacted with overload of some muscles and tendons. It has mostly be down in the lower back around the spine that I have had problems. Maybe it's because I usually have drive large heavy MC. requiring more force throughout the body to keep track of.

Last year in Indonesia, I also had a small Honda 200 cc. No problems with my back, but with my right foot.

The weather has only been sunshine 7 days and 9 with little sun and about 28-30c. I should probably first have travelt about 15 April, to achieve the warmth that I missed when I was driving along the sea.






 

On this MC.Journey I have sometimes, felt that I was not completely present

Part of me was like outside of me and looked at a slightly reclined Bjarne, who without much future energy and drive now took on a new MC.Journey. I lacked enthusiasm to get out and experience a new country, a new culture.

I stand now in Hanoi airport, along with my passive self. We are both Groggie, after a journey of more than 28 hours and only about 3 hours of sleep. Over the loudspeaker we hear my name - they ask me to come to the information desk. My luggage is not with flyet.- It comes as no surprise to both of us.

I stand now in Hanoi Airport little Groggie, after a journey of more than 28 hours and only 3 hours of sleep. Over the loudspeaker I hear my name - they ask me to come to the information desk. My luggage is not on the plane.

6 weeks after at Copenhagen airport I experience that my luggage again was sent an extra turn around in the air system. 

It testifies to all the problems I've had with MC.Honda 125 cc.

 


Restrained war images in a more subtle, sensitive and humane way describes their struggle in subdued tones. Vietnam Fine Arts Museum



Ho Chi Minh is depicted not as the military heroic leader, but as a human, that is in tune with his people and nature. Vietnam Fine Arts Museum


The Vietnamese national soul requires that one goes deeper

For over 70 years, the Vietnamese had lived with a Communist government and it has of course influenced their attitude to life. They are certainly becoming more rational and soil.

Ever since 1010, and for more than 800 years, Buddhism has been a State religion in Vietnam. So their ancestors cultivated the religious and spiritual. Therefore, there are many homes still home altar. The spiritual is therefore just below the surface. I can also understand that they love rituals. Although 81% are officially atheists said that most Vietnamese nationals would reply that they were Buddhists if they were asked. Officially, only 9% are Buddhists.

For some months ago I heard an economist comment on why it went better financially for Vietnam in relation to Myanmar. If the harvest went well for a farmer in Myanmar, he thanked the gods with gifts and if he had a surplus when the year was out, he gave it also to the gods. A Vietnamese farmer used his profits to invest in improving its agriculture.

The Vietnamese are very quiet and have a little laid-back friendly attitude to strangers. But I missed a little more curiosity, a little wildness that is ready to break some boundaries. What I miss in the Vietnamese, I miss actually with us Dane

The camera I have on my travels used as a tool to break some boundaries and get a little closer. But it was just not quite enough, Vietnamese People have like an extra layer of aloofness to be degraded, which is not properly managed for me when I even against strangers also is somewhat reserved.

- The Vietnamese national soul requires that one goes deeper into the otherwise granted and friendly surface.


Home altars with luminous gods






I have been very happy that I could share my experiences and photos with you from a great country and a great people who take small but firm and determined step forward.


 HO HO HO CHI MINH

Bjarne v.H.H.Solberg

Billedkunstner & Scenograf
BvHHS@email.DK
www. BvHHS.com
+45 30230036


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Buddhas / Vietnam Fine Arts Museum