BvHHS: MOTORCYCLE INDIA JOURNEY 2008 no.1

Royal Enfield 500 Bullet

MC.India 2008 / 1.800 km / 14 Driving Days/
Delhi/Mardiwar/Rishikesh/Mussoorie/Yamunanager/
Chandigarn/Shilma/Bhunter/Manali/Ner Chowk/
Karsog/Shimla/Renuka/Kurukshetra/Delhi/

2 - 30 Sept. 2008

Motorcycle journey B.v.H.H.S.

Dear friends, I am again on a Motor Bike Journey, this time it has no direct purpose but with the hope of achieving some of the kick I humane, visually and physically experienced on my 12,000 km. Motorcycle-Pilgrimage to the Middle East 2003, together with the Director Nullo from the theater Cantabile2. We had each an motorcycle, that we drove on through 11 different countries in 2 months. The purpose was to meet the Islamic culture as a Christian and gather experiences and stories to the Performance '7 Princesses'.

You shouldn't feel obligated to read these long reports. You can just choose to skim over the headlines. In this way you will know where I am in the moment in this global world and just take my email as an affectionate greeting from a friend.

India has for many years been in my thoughts. Just a few of you probably know that I have had a Guru since 1972 (he died some years ago). I tried to go all the Yoga Way. Was Hatha Yoga teacher and taught for 10 years. It was my spiritual philosophical and religious period. After some years I had to admit that I was more a part of the secular world with all its sensual temptations.

My ex-wife, Elsebeth there also where yoga teacher and I, never came to India at the time when we were really into the yoga philosophy. We had just got our son Zabel and I can remember that I thought it would be too dangerous for a newborn to travel to India with all the infectious diseases. Traveling alone would also be hard for family reasons.

When I think back, it was probably more an excuse to avoid the physical and sensual confrontation, it is for a sensitive social conscious soul with socialist ideas from the rich North, to be confronted with the poverty of India back in 70’. I had just seen the documentary Calcutta by filmmaker Louis Malle. A three-hour visual nightmare of poverty and stunted physical destinies. Before my religion period, I had gone through my very active policy period as a member of the International Socialist Party. As a rich social-minded Westerner, I would feel moral guilt and feel that I should do something. But your efforts would just be like a drop in the ocean.

Another reason, was perhaps the fear of being confronted with the reverse side of my own yoga philosophy. I saw that the spiritual India in a way, turned their backs to the secular world instead of finding a balance with the political-economic world. Hindu philosophy with their caste system brakes for a more democratic system. I was probably afraid that my religious yoga philosophical dream might break when I was confronted with the real world.

School Transport / Delhi

My Journey has begun

Actually, I have prepared myself. Read some guidebooks on the various states in India as well as seen in architecture books, with all the holy temples and buildings and decided to explore northern India. The ancient wooden Hindu temples visually appealed to me. Furthermore, I am more drawn to the more violent nature in the mountains. Even with MC.power it is a challenge to climb mountains.

I chose the first route along the holy river Ganga on the east coast, with its sacred temples and cities in the more swampy areas. But I was a little afraid of the density of traffic and the concentration of crowds that would be in these areas and the poor who, through begging trying to survive.

I had initially chosen to take the trip from Delhi to the mountains north end up to the town of Lehin Kasmir, the northernmost area of India. In this area are the most beautiful wooden temples. I heard that there in many decades have been conflict in this area between India and Pakistan, about whom this state really belong to and only a few weeks ago, there was again disorder in the area.

Arrive at Delhi midnight well exhausted after a night without sleep and 12 hours of travel. But I finish what I had to do before this exciting MC. India Journey.

Near traffic in Delhi

My route has been changed constantly, so first when I talk to a Travel Agent there saw a potential customer in me. He drew a circle route with various cities and km. distance. He had unwittingly created the final route of the cities for me. His agenda with this drawings was to tell me how long and how difficult, dangerous and expensive this MC. journey would be. It would be cheaper by train or renting a car, or even better to hire a car with driver from him. But I still wanted to do my MC. journey.

He offered me instead a car with driver for just under 20$ to drive me around anywhere the hole day. This I accepted because it was important for me to find a place where I could hire an MC. The driver was Sikh and spoke fluent English, so he quickly found the MC. area. He pointed to a merchant who had plenty of Enfield MC.

Here sat a young French man and his girlfriend, they had just returned after a trip to the northern area. They said good for his MC and service. He gave me some tips. I would ask to have 2 extra tubes, pump, gear cables, brake cables, plugs, 2 side mirrors, a really good horn with brand new battery, 2 hand bags, hand-grips to protect the legs, 2 liters of petrol, 2 liters of fluid to the body and the principal horn with a clear and loud sound, for that I would really need. I was instructed how the rear wheel easily removed. Received instruction on how to change gear wire and brake wire. He had both tried to drive on a Royal Enfield Bullet 500 cc and 350 cc. Enfield is a somewhat smaller Indian mini version of the American Harley Davidson Motor Bike. The sound of an Enfield 500cc is too big and awareness-consuming.

Mandi is one of the northernmost towns I intend to achieve (see my final route on attached photo). It lies in 4000 m altitude. It had been quite a challenge, technique and physical to get there on MC-bike, according to a young Dutch MC-biker. But it had been his greatest experience.

I decided first only to rent a 350cc when I did not foreseeable that driving fast at all, because the roads and the route was not adequate for more than 80-100 km. I read that while cruising at speeds Ensfield was approx. 80 km. But I changed my mind during the day. I would avoid too many shocks in cycling and track. Why not pay a little more lux and comfort, so I got a 500cc. I would rent it for 26 days, so I had negotiated 350cc down to 10$ a day. It is slightly outside the high season. 500cc. I got down to 15$ a day and a deposit 600$.

He promised me a new MC. 500cc the next day but instead I received a slightly older model wears 1999. Fortunately I had read that you also have to arrange for an insurance covering if I caused injury to third person.

In Delhi/India they drive too close and very irregularly but not as aggressively as they do in Istanbul. All MC. drivers, cyclists, taxis, cyclists, tucker, trying in every possible way to wiggle through using their noisy horns, whether it is on the wrong side. All drivers and the walking people are very much awake which this kind of traffic required. The sacred cow blocking and affect traffic flow a lot.

I tried MC by driving around in Delhi. There were a few temples I thought I should see. But it was incredibly difficult to navigate. The gears were difficult for me to master, so I was often stuck in the middle of the traffic. So I had again to kick-start what was not easy, when you sat in the traffic.

So I had to have it off to the side. Stand up on the foot and then some kick before it started. Well it was probably just me who had to accustom myself a little for this MC. I had not been driving since 2004.

Repair / Delhi

Delhi

4 Sept. on the road to the holy city of Haridwar 225 km. north of Dehli

The young Dutchman had advised me to get out of Delhi at 5 in the morning. It had taken him 3 hours to get out. I did not really want to get up so early, because I usually go to bed late.

The MC was packed at 9. I was already completely soaked with sweat. I had leather pants and boots on in 36 degree heat, but only a thin long sleeved shirt.

Well, now it was just to get going, then I would be blown through. But it was not easy to get out of Delhi. Constantly you got into a new slow-down situation, which I had to wriggle through. I still had not completely control over the gear and the gas, there was something wrong.

Only 22 km. from Delhi, I was sitting in an incredibly hectic traffic jam and was again stalled. I pushed the MC. to the side of the highway. I felt totally exhausted by the density of the noisy vehicles, and the heat - I was totally set of physical and mental. I found a lonely chair that stood between all the garbage along the main road in front of a few poor huts. Should I return to Delhi and have replaced my MC. because of my problems with gears or drive forward and find a workshop.

I was a little surprised that I after only 22 km. felt so worn out. I'd stepped up my physical training for the last 14 days before traveling, to keep to sit on an MC up to 4 hours a day.

I quickly found an MC. workshop that could tighten the wire gear and tighten some other screws. I got further but still, there was something wrong with the gear.

Only after 3 tim. and 100 km from Delhi, there was little space in the traffic, so you could come up at regular cruising speed of 60 km. I could also pick up speed around. 80 km. what actually was the top speed for most people. There are very few I've seen driving faster. But the roads quality, density of traffic and to each other, overloaded cars with people and goods, risky overtaking, sacred cows, cyclists, etc. affect their speed. They drive very risky when trying to overtake or directly driving in the wrong side, forcing one to reduce the speed or driving out of the rebate, what is not wise on an MC. They drive incredibly close. Especially some of the big buses was driving dangerously, although they do not drive more than 60-80 km. then overtakes the risky with the horn in the bottom, they are driving out of the rebate so the entire bus body swings. Then it is better to be drive on my own MC. You have to zigzagged between the lane to avoid large holes and bumps there suddenly appear and you meet vehicles that drive directly against you on your side of the road. This happens even on the major roads where there are police officers.

When I had driven ca.120 km began the speedometer and km. counter to behave strangely. I stopped at the next MC. shop along the main road. Had replaced the speedometer. The wire was broken.

I could now catch a glimpse of the light - now I had only about 10 km. back

I felt myself becoming well worn after 6 hours. I have only traveled 215 km. I had many breaks to rest and have got 6 liters of fluid. My small backpack on my back, had begun to be very heavy. In my back I had my most important papers, computer, camera and video camera. On my last trip, I had nothing on my back. But it is not good for electronics, with all the hard constant tremors when they are directly bolted onto the MC.

I had only seen a sign on the road after approx. 80 km. who had fonts I understood, to be sure that I was on the right track.

Suddenly would the gear not grasp. I was forced to pull off. I tried again to start it, but now the kick starter did not grasp.

Here I was far away from an MC. workshop. There were some young people who also tried to kick start my MC, they thought it was the whole gearbox their had broken. Luckily there was a small temple yoga center nearby. There was a young guy their got in touch with a MC. workshop in Haridwar from my mobile. But the shop could not get my MC. I have to find a way to get my MC into Haridwar.

Now I was in a kind of situation as in the beginning of my last MC. journey. I had stopped to take a photo of a small Orthodox church in a deserted area in Serbia. When I rose again on the MC. it would not start. The battery had die. What should I do, there was no traffic because it was pretty late. So I started to buckle my baggage on to walk to the nearest settlement, at least 5 km. away.

Suddenly an very small car came out from a side road with a tiny Orthodox Father. I could only see his head behind the wheel. He had his 18 years son at his side. I stopped them and luckily his son spoke English. He studied to become a priest. They were ready to help me and I was squeezed into the back seat with my kit. They drove me to a workshop their got my MC on a truck and then charged my battery.

Now I was in the same situation here in front of a small Yoga Center. Actually I saw it as a positive sign on my re-journey. Although I felt tired, I could see the positive in the situation. It is not dangerous and the MC. workshops do not cost so much. Such a situation requires a solution and there is actually always helpful people around one that would help one if they can see what you need.

No one understood English. The young boys gthere could speak a little English, had drive away on there MC. I tried to explain that I needed a truck that could carry my MC. to the workshop. Fortunately the Guru of the Yoga Center Guru show up, big, jovial and English speaking. He should probably get a car. He offered me a cup of Thai / tea with sugar, it was just that little kickstart my physically and mentally needed. He stood out at the roadside and tried to stop various small motor Tucker. After a while they found a small kind of tuck similar truck with high sides allow. There was 4 in the front seat, but he had no cargo on the back. My MC was uplifted by 4-5 persons with luggage and everything. I had to stand on the back of the truck and held on my MC.

While I waited, and drank my Thai, I got a decent drop from the tree above my head, it seemed odd. Before I made too many thoughts about this strange phenomenon, I discovered the dark spots of rain out on the pavement. With large drops down over me, I stood as a second captain and tried to keep my MC. on an even keel when truck-tucken drove up and down the holes. Luckily it was not that big rain I got this time.

The Guru had told me that I have to pay him 200 rupees approx. 5 $ I would allow him 400Rs but he would not receive so much. I got him, however, persuaded to accept 250Rs. The Workshop in Haridwar received my MC. It would take approx. 1 hours, so my MC would be running again. I sat up on a bicycle taxi to find a hotel in the meantime.

Geared at Enfield was orderly. I got me staying in a hotel, not the best but OK. In the twilight I went for a walk in the city. First the light went out across the city, then broke through the weather and the rain got into thick squares. I had been given shelter under canopy at a fabric store. Here I had a conversation with an Indian from Delhi, he was also just a tourist.

Acid-Sweet / Haridwar

5 Sept. Haridwar / The holy city

In the holy city of Haridwar and in a radius of 50 km. you can't eat meat. So it suited me just fine as a vegetarian. The irony was ca.60 km. before Haridwar I stopt at a sort of picnic area with various restaurants where I wanted something to eat. I tried to tell them that I was vegetarian, but none of the many people on site spoke English. I contacted a young female guest, who saw more schooled and not so local out. She told me that vegetarianism in the Hindu states is 'Shakahari'.

For me the journey has also been a culinary delight, compared to my last journey, where I often had to get very simple dishes there almost constantly reminded of each other. Here I could get different tasty dishes every day.

Next day I went down to the sacred temples and places of Ganga. I went into a place where you should lodge his footwear. It was like entering a large public swimming pool. Naked children, men in underwear and women in colorful sari and all the equipment. Right at the entrance, where most priests were in and through Brahman rituals gave blessing to all those who would receive it. As thanks, they gave a gift to Brahma in the form of cash, and set fire to a small wick that lay on top of a bowl shape of leaves, which lay flowers. The small boat was then put into the Ganga river. Further along was feeling more relaxed and bathing were more wildly.

I went with guru down to the edge of the Ganga and he asked me first if I would bathe in the Ganga. Dip your head down under. I was reluctant because I knew how polluted Ganga river was.

'Holy Fire' / Haridwar

Already from the beginning when I came in, stuck a young inner is closest to me, whom I often and often experienced. This physical proximity is probably more natural for the Indians, as they are accustomed to a much closer body contact. But for me it was a little too much sometimes. As for example when a young inner sat close up of one and bend over your shoulders, to look with one's Road Map. In such situations, I have usually chosen simply dragging me neatly back. This usually happens mostly on the very local places.

The young inwardness of the sacred open-air area, tried with his poor English, to understand where I was from. I understand that he was one of the young priests. Then came an elderly perfect speaking who told me to come here tonight. There I could see all the many small leaf bowls, with the sacred fire, floating down the Ganga in the dark. I would come exactly at. 6:30 pm on. 19:00, he had to speak and give his blessing to all the attendees.

If I wanted - he would like to give me his blessing. I came up in the main building on top of all the steps that went into the Ganga. Entered his domicile, his soft mattresses. We had a little chat about Australia, like many thousands like him, describes as The Milk Country.

Via Arla Foods UK products known Indians to the country Denmark, The farm country.

One of the others, had meanwhile taken a leaf-shaped bowl with flowers and a tiny candle wick and a small bowl with red dye, a coconut and a bag skimmelmilk for me.

I went with guru down to the edge of the Ganga and he asked me first if I would bathe in the Ganga. Dip your head down under. I was reluctant because I knew how polluted Ganga river was.

He asked me to dip my hands into the water and cleanse my lips with water. Then he poured milk in addition to coconuts. Did a lot of Sanskrit or Hindu. So I got what we call Brahman blessing. He tied a red yarn ribbon on my wrist. I thought it was great to wear this symbolic piece of jewelry, which showed that I tried to approach their culture.

Coconuts were thrown out in Ganga and then the bowl lit and I could send it down Ganga. There were some very young boys who ensure that the leaf bowls got closer to the middle of the Ganga flow, so their blessing, hope, and holy flames, would be transported further down the Ganga. There were some really big leaf bowls, with many candles wicks.

For this ceremony, he asked me to give the place a blessing gift at 2000 Rs. I gave him 1000 Rs. It always takes a while before you find the price level where you don't feel like a fooled tourist. For my donation I also got a bottle of holy water and a box of blessed tiny sugar balls.

9 sept. I am now in the town Mussoorie. 2000 m. altitude

It lies 34 km. north of the city of Dehra Dun and is the capital of the Province of Uttarakhand, I have a fantastic panoramic view directly into and beyond the valley from my balcony.

View from the balcony / Mussoorie

Thai

It requires time and consideration, getting ready for a 1 month MC. Journey. I still have trouble finding decent road maps. I must also enter into a better MC driving rhythm and get used to this traffic culture. Find into a travel rhythm there is best for one self in relation to its surroundings. Similarly, it has taken me some time to put words together.

AUM

the universal mantra